Author Topic: Wading Boots Stud placement  (Read 6267 times)

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Chris Puchniak

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Wading Boots Stud placement
« on: February 19, 2013, 11:41:04 AM »
I have the tendency to wear studs in my wading boots - probably 95% of the time - and usually only remove them if I am planning to do a lot of trail walking on hard surfaces AND fishing river bottoms that are more or less sandy, hence not requiring the need for studs (though if trail walking on soft, muddy surfaces, and wearing felt soles, the presence of studs will significantly help you walk in mud without slipping and greatly add to safety - if you've ever slipped while walking down in incline in mud with felt soled boots, you'll know what I mean!). Other times I don't use them are when fishing from a boat, or wading slow rocky rivers where the water is so slow that I have more concern about the scraping noise of metal on rock as opposed to the risk of slipping (which is insignificant in these cases).

Although studs can improve wading safety, there are a few things I keep in mind that can change things:

1.  Studs can be slippery on dry rocks, and are much better on wet rocks.
2.  Studs can damage a fly line or boat hull if stepped on.
3.  Studs can be physically hard on your back (for those with back concerns) if walking long distances on hard surfaces.
4.  In slow moving waters without a lot of ambient noise, studs can actually make a lot of noise when they scrape on rocks, and as we know, all noise is amplified significantly under water - both in terms of distance and magnitude.
5.  A scattered pattern is best for me, with stud placement around the edges as opposed to in the center of the sole.
6.  More is not necessarily better with studs - often you only need a few to grip properly, and if you have too many in the sole, it can actually reduce the surface area that contacts the bottom, and consequently be less safe.

On the attached picture you can see where I usually place my studs (I don't remove them very often, as I suspect that would eventually weaken the mounting holes and lead to more frequent stud loss).  I like some around the ball of the foot, where my toes most of the moving, and slightly more along the outer edge than the inner edge.

What are your thoughts on using studs on your wading boots?  Any thoughts that might improve my approach?

I will fish anywhere and find beauty in it.

Don't be a Pessimist. Don't be an Optimist.  Be a Realist and change when you need to.

Mike Learmonth

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2013, 03:51:34 PM »
I went from felt to the rubber Vibram sole on my last pair of simms thinking that I was doing the environment some good. But, I took a header in 2ft of moving water at the Vedder on Sunday and convinced myself to go get some studs. I hadn't done that yet for many of the reasons you cite but in the end - safety first for me.

Missing my felts.
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Randy Paskall

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2013, 04:00:05 PM »
Vibram is a misnomer afaic, the boot themselves, laces, and everything else they are constructed from have just as much potential to move 'undesirable aquatics' from one place to another in an unwanted fashion as felts. If you've noticed felts are back in and treating your gear is prefered over all else excepting maybe New Zealand where they are quite rabid about it (or so I've heard) yet they seem to ignore the possibilities of the rest of the footwear besides the felt?
Sorry, but you weren't catching that fish anyway.....

Chris Puchniak

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2013, 05:26:35 PM »
Mike, I agree - safety first.  Studs do help if used right.

Randy makes some really good points on the felt/vibram issue.  In the end, I want to do the best for the environment, but my safety has to come first.  Vibram and other such soles may have been a good attempt to take some preventative measures at stopping the spread of invasive items, but wearing such material alone hardly makes a real dent in the problem.

But that is a huge discussion for another topic.
I will fish anywhere and find beauty in it.

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Max Cohen

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2013, 07:50:23 PM »
very informative i really like this info thanks alot
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Randy Paskall

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2013, 05:54:56 AM »
I usually place this stud IN the boots. 8)
Sorry, but you weren't catching that fish anyway.....

Chris Puchniak

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2013, 06:02:56 AM »
I usually place this stud IN the boots. 8)

 ::)
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Don't be a Pessimist. Don't be an Optimist.  Be a Realist and change when you need to.

Aaron Laing

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2013, 10:13:31 AM »
One thing worth mentioning vis-avis studs is the choice of aluminum studs versus carbide. While carbide will last longer and give better grip on some surfaces (wet wood, ice, etc.), aluminum, which tends to deform a little under pressure, will give a better grip on almost all other surfaces.

Aaron
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Chris Puchniak

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2013, 10:35:49 AM »
Thanks for adding that Aaron!
I will fish anywhere and find beauty in it.

Don't be a Pessimist. Don't be an Optimist.  Be a Realist and change when you need to.

Mike Learmonth

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Re: Wading Boots Stud placement
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2016, 04:26:19 PM »
I picked up a bag of Kold Kutter studs. They are designed for studding tires on motorcycles that race on ice. So far, they have held up well. And a bag of 250 studs is cheap. So, replacement doesn't break that bank.

http://koldkutter.com/products

#8 - 3/8ths

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