Customizing and Pimping your Boats...

[Todd Oishi]

Next phase of the boat project.... Thwart Boards!!!

























The back rest and brackets on this seat are are quickly and easily removed (4 screws) to make the seat FIPS-Mouche compliant and ready for competition angling...



* Instructions to be posted shortly...

[Todd Oishi]

And just to add a personal touch to my boat...

[Todd Oishi]

Now that my son Michael and I have thoroughly tested the thwart boards and determined the best positioning for the seat on the thwart board, I removed it's clamp-style seat base (shown in the above photo) and installed a post-style base instead, which provides far greater stability and will allow the seat to swivel a full 360 degrees:



A 3/4" hole is drilled through the thwart board and a series of holes can also be drilled to allow the user the ability and luxury to position the seat to their liking (I've intentionality offset the hole on this board to allow the user the ability to cast to their right when need be for loch-style fishing):



Here's a shot of the finished product, which stays firmly in place or can be removed and the seat readjusted in less than 5 seconds:





I chose to use this design, as it allows me to simply pop the seat off the thwart boards and into the bases and pedestals that I've installed on the seat benches and floor boards:



I chose to go with 13" posts, as I feel that the boat would be less stable (lower center of gravity) and looks less like a "bass boat", as the seats barely sit above the gunnels:



I went with a mix of threaded and non-threaded bases, based on the fact that the shorter non-threaded posts (ones that I've cut and modified to my liking) are easier and quicker to swap in and out, as I prefer to place the seats directly on the seat mounts (without posts), as it's much safer and recommended when motoring at speeds over 5 mph or in rough water...

The threaded posts are over an inch longer than the non-threaded ones, so I chose to use the non-threaded bases in locations where there was enough clearance between the floor boards and the hull of the boat (everywhere but the center floor boards). I feel that the threaded bases provide a bit more stability for the post - due to the extra length of the shaft that extends below the base.





I measured, drilled and mounted a total of 4 pin-style seat bases down the center-line of the boat, which allows me to reconfigure the seating arrangement to accommodate up to 3 fly fishers or switch to a 2 person seating arrangement that will position the 2 anglers a nearly 10 feet apart, or position 3 anglers at a still fairly comfortable distance of 5 feet apart while using the posts and pedestals:





I just need to pick up some stainless hardware to complete the installation...

[Todd Oishi]

Instructions for mounting the pedestal base plates...

Measure and mark the locations for the mounting hardware. Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill pilot-holes for the insert jack-nuts that will be used to securely mount the bases for the pedestals to the aluminum bench seats:



Select the appropriate size drill bit, so the jack-nuts fit snug into the hole:



I used aluminum jack-nuts, which won't corrode due to moisture or electrolysis (dissimilar metal corrosion):
 


The jack-nuts are very flush with the top surface after they're compressed by squeezing the handle of the jack-nut rivet gun:





Sequentially tighten the stainless steel bolts (screw head bolts work better, as they reduce the chance of damaging fly line and leader) to ensure a perfect fit and alignment:



The finished product:

[Todd Oishi]

Instructions for mounting pedestal bases on the wooden decks...

Measure and mark the locations for the mounting hardware. Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the holes for the insert T-nuts that will be used to securely mount the bases for the pedestals to the plywood decking:



Press the T-nuts into place and hammer them into the backside of the plywood decking:



Sequentially tighten the stainless steel screw head bolts to ensure a perfect fit and alignment of the base:

[Todd Oishi]

Side Compartment/Tray...

Measure the distance between the front and rear bench seats, as well as the height of the bench tops:



Transfer measurements onto plywood and cut out the kick panel and back panel (I've made the back panel 1-1/4" lower to create a lip that will help to keep items, such as my fly boxes and tippet, from falling onto the floor). I've also designed my storage compartment so it'll attach to the side wall of the boat and won't take up any floor space:



Tape or clamp the 2 panels in place and ensure that the kick panel is at a 90 degree angle to the floor panel:



Create a template and cut corner blocks to provide support for the side compartment:



Screw the kick and back panel to the support blocks and test fit to ensure a perfect fit:



Measure and cut the lid for the side compartment. Cut the end of the lid that runs along the side wall of the boat at an angle so it will fit snug and stop smaller items from falling between the lid and the side of the boat:



I've designed this storage compartment so it'll hold up to 2 rod tubes (it'll hold over half a dozen fly rods if they're out of their tubes), several fly boxes, and other miscellaneous items, so they're quick and easily to accessed whether I'm fishing recreationally or competitively:



I've selected a brass piano hinge for the lid, and will be installing it against the kick panel so smaller items won't fall into the gap between the compartment and the side wall of the boat:



As an added bonus; the storage compartment can easily be secured to either the port or starboard side of the boat with the help of a set of quick release mounting pins:



The next step involves filling a few of the imperfections/knots in the wood; waterproofing all of the surfaces with clear, outdoor-grade urethane; and attaching the carpeting to the outer and inner surfaces:

[Todd Oishi]

The finished product, loaded and ready for action...





Please note that this storage compartment is designed for 4 piece fly rods, as there isn't enough distance in the gap between the two benches to accomodate 2 piece fly rods.

Soemone emailed me to ask about adding too much weight to the boat, and I told him that I worried about the same things, as I don't want to exceed the Coast Guard's safety ratings. I only used a little of 1 sheet of 4' X 8' X 5/8" plywood. Here's the American Plywood Association's specs on plywood that I referred to when doing some research on this subject:

Thickness - Actual Weight
1/4"         - 22 lbs
3/8"          - 28.5 lbs
1/2"          - 40.6 lbs
5/8"          - 48 lbs
3/4"          - 60.8 lbs
1-1/8"       - 84.5 lbs

My calculation puts my total modifications to date at appoximately 60 lbs (including seat modifications and the seats themselves). I swapped my extremely heavy, 4-stroke 9.9 for a much lighter motor as well, so I am still well under the safety ratings with myself and 2 of my sons in the boat (both are in their 20's).

Keep in mind that everything I've added to my boat is designed to be 100% removable, so I can still manually lioft it by myself and carry it on my roof racks if need be (weighs 145 pounds when bare). But then again, I'm spoiled now that I own a trailer...

[Richard Bitterman]

Good work Todd! As I mentioned in my PM, you inspired me and I got busy working away. Floors are assembled and 1st coat of polyurethane is on. 2 more coats this week and then the carpet will go on next Saturday. I can say, with the modified V, there were a lot of angles that made this very tricky but I got it to work so I hope the finished product looks something similar to yours.

Here are a few photos so far.

[Todd Oishi]

Bumped to the top for Andy Larkin, who is starting his own boat build project.

Good-luck Andy! I hope that you have as much fun as I did while customizing mine...

[Andy Larkin]

Thanks Todd!  I new the topic was hiding around on here somewhere.  Now to get back to work!..

[Todd Oishi]

Bumped for Brian...

[Dave Bruce]

What a super job on the boat Todd. I find it hard to follow the measure twice rule for some reason. The only adjustments I can make on my fishing craft is add or decrease air... I did make an adapter to house the Hummingbird depth finder for the tube which gives me reliable info of the bottom. I am afraid that I won't get to see you on any of the lakes I go to. ;)Great Job Todd

[Brian Danilkiewicz]

Thanks for the bump Todd!

Floor boards are done now onto thwart boards. I really like how you set your seats up with multiple options for locations.

[Ron Thompson]

Be sure when you put your batteries in the boat they are in plastic cases, because if the batteries are in battery cases and leak the acid won't melt your boat floor.
ron

[Todd Oishi]

I'd love to see some of the modifications and pimping that you guys (and gals) have done to your boats!